Stick to the basic ingredients.
When it comes to anti-aging serums, Dr. Tull and Dr. Lolis recommend keeping an eye out for specific ingredients. Dr. Tull suggests focusing on nourishing peptides and hydrating hyaluronic acid, but points out that, although they’re perfect for the right skin types, optional extras like retinol and vitamin C can be a bit much for sensitive skin. Dr. Lolis simplifies it by saying that, if your skin can handle it, you should look for ingredients that protect (like SPF), repair (with antioxidants like vitamin C and niacinamide), and build (using retinols, bakuchiol, and growth factors for collagen). It’s all about finding ingredients that do the job without causing any fuss.
Look out for growth factors.
Speaking of growth factors, Dr. Tull says that “human or plant-derived growth factors should be on the top of the list of ingredients to look for in anti-aging serums.” According to her, they work by supporting collagen production and increasing the skin’s elasticity. “Human derived growth factors (engineered from cloned cells) are the most effective, but for anyone put-off by human derived cells, there are many products made from botanical growth factors.”
Make sure the formula is right for your skin.
“The serum you choose should complement your skin type, whether you have dry, oily, or combination skin,” says Dr. Lolis. For those specifically with acne-prone skin, Dr. Lolis recommends looking for serums that are non-comedogenic and have ingredients that can soothe irritation and redness. “Also, patients with rosacea should be careful using retinols and patients with sensitive skin should stay away from potential allergens such as fragrances and parabens.”
Look for products that are backed by data.
“Having clinical and scientific research demonstrating the efficacy and tolerability of a product is key, because you know you are getting your bang for your buck,” says Dr. Lolis. “Serums are formulated with different concentrations, some of which may not be as efficacious at their concentration,” she notes. The bottom line: Do your research on the product and how it’s made before buying it.
Don’t just go for the pretty package.
Dr. Lolis tells us that serums should be packaged in opaque and air tights containers to preserve the stability and efficacy of the ingredients. “Lastly, you should choose a serum with a texture that you like and is easy to incorporate into your skincare routine.”
