If you’ve got acne-prone skin, you’ll likely do anything to clear it. You’ve probably invested in many cleansers, serums and moisturisers to keep your blemishes under control – and now you’ve got an entire pharmacy under your bathroom sink (great). But do you know what’s actually inside these bottles that help achieve those great skin days?
We know that hyaluronic acid gives instant hydration, and vitamin C effectively brightens, but what’s the Holy Grail for tackling a bout of blemishes or those pesky black dots residing on your nose? Enter: salicylic acid.`
To put it simply, salicylic acid is the trusted skincare ingredient backed by dermatologists for acne and oily-prone skin types. Its name may sound confusing (say it with us: sal-i-cy-lic), but its effects are straightforward: it will help to decongest pores and promote a clearer complexion.
You may not know this, but you’ve probably been using salicylic acid for years. Yep, think back to your school days of fighting cystic acne, and it probably featured in that irritable cream you were once using. However, today you can find the ingredient in a whole host of top-performing cleansers, serums and moisturisers that will clear your skin and nourish it back to full health.
So, if your interest has been piqued, and you want to know more, here’s your crash course on everything you need to know about salicylic acid.
What is salicylic acid?
First and foremost, let’s establish what salicylic acid is and how it differs from other acids. There are two main acid brackets in skincare: AHAs (alpha-hydroxy-acids) and BHAs (beta-hydroxy-acids). ‘Salicylic acid is a BHA,’ says Dr Justine Hextall, consultant dermatologist at the Royal College of Physicians. ‘The key feature of this acid is that it’s lipid soluble and will dissolve oil inside your pores,’ she adds.
While both AHAs and BHAs are chemical exfoliators, AHAs (like glycolic and lactic acid) are water-soluble and BHAs are oil-soluble. The former is ideal for loosening dead skin cells on the surface, but BHAs go the extra mile – they dig deeper and clear your pores from the inside out.
What does salicylic acid do for acne-prone skin?
Salicylic acid can reach deep into your pores to unclog and clear, making it an ideal treatment for those with acne and oil-prone skin types. While many call upon the potent ingredient to treat and clear comedones [blackheads and whiteheads], Dr Hextall explains that it also has anti-inflammatory benefits to calm swollen papules or pus-filled pustules. This is especially useful for those pulsing craters that sit under your skin.
And it doesn’t end there: not only is salicylic acid ideal for banishing breakouts, it can also help when it comes to post-acne pigmentation. ‘As salicylic acid sloughs away dead skin cells, it will also reduce the appearance of post-acne marks and pigmentation in the process,’ says Dr Hextall. Those with wandering fingers will know that skin picking is a no-go when you’ve got acne – it can cause more painful lesions and scarring. So if you’re guilty as charged, invest in this ingredient and it will even your complexion and prevent breakouts from happening in the first place.
How should you use salicylic acid in your skincare routine?
If you don’t stick to the salicylic acid rule book (don’t worry, it’s a small one), there’s a chance the ingredient could cause dryness and irritation. However, Dr Hextall explains that using salicylic acid properly, and perfecting the rest of your skincare routine, will help keep everything in check.
If you’re using a formula with a high concentration of salicylic acid, it may cause some initial discomfort, so Dr Hextall recommends using a rich moisturiser to ensure those sensitive areas stay soothed and nourished.‘Often you’ll find products that combine salicylic acid with hydrating ingredients, like ceramides, which will repair your skin’s barrier and prevent dryness,’ says Dr Hextall.
Should you use salicylic acid every day?
How often you use salicylic acid largely depends on the type of product, your skin type and the potency of the ingredient. ‘As with any acid I recommend introducing it slowly to maintain a healthy skin barrier,’ advises Dr Hextall. If you’re using a salicylic-acid-based moisturiser or cleanser, that’s also fortified with skin-nourishing ingredients – like ceramides or hyaluronic acid – you should be fine to use every day. However, if you’re working with a high concentration (around 2%), use it twice daily and work your way up to keep irritation at bay. And as always, those with sensitive skin should proceed with caution — start with a potency of 0.5% to build up your tolerance.
Now that the science-y bit is covered, we can move on to more exciting things: shopping. With a million and one iterations out there – from cleansers to serums and moisturisers – we’ve cherry-picked the best salicylic acid products to get your hands on (well, technically, your face).
